Thursday, December 27, 2007

Nica Update#3: Ometepe Island

Volcan Conception-view from El Encanto
The 'Ferry'...wish you could see the dude swimming to shore with the rope to tie her up...
R&R at El Encanto on our front deck...
View of Volcan Maderas...

From Granada we bused to Rivas and then to the port of San Jorge to catch a ferry to Ometepe Island...check out the pic of the Nica ferry...not quite BC Ferries...but what the hell. Ometepe is a remarkable and very special island...the largest island on a lake in the world. And lake Nicaragua is the 10th largest lake in the world! Check it out next time you are on google earth cause it really is massive. This place was on my list the first time I travelled in Central America in 1999/2000 however, I didnt make it there the first time. So I was thrilled to finally make it there with Brad on our trip. We felt at home on Ometepe somehow...maybe it was the water surrounding us or the temperate climate but we really loved this place. It is shaped like a peanut with a massive volcano on either end...originally it was two volcanic islands but they became one when the lava flows connected them many years ago. The land is very fertile and farming is the main industry which supports most of the islanders. Their main export is plantains and their main customers are other central american countries whos crops were damaged from hurricane Mitch in 1998. We stayed on Ometepe for 4 days and could have stayed longer if we had the time...highlights:
  • El Encanto- a finca (farm) and hotel with only 4 rooms and a small restaurant. One of our favorite places to stay-beautiful grounds filled with flowering shrubs, birds, butterflies, fireflies, views of the two volcano's and the lake below (situated on a hill). Perfect accomodation only a couple of years old, clean, private rooms with bath- $25.
  • Chatting with Carlos and Helena over mugs of steaming coffee about life in Nica...politics, social issues, water, weather, local issues...
  • Feasting at their restaurant on delicious local dishes...
  • 7 hour bike ride around the south part of the island and to the middle of the 'peanut'...on the crappiest nica bikes you have ever seen...at first it was funny. But by the end of the ride I was nearly in tears from the searing pain on my tailbone, my wrists and hands...got a weird twitch from nerve damage in my hands...red and raw on all of our soft spots...but it was definately worth it all as we got to see some areas of the island that very few people have visited. Tiny villages dot the lower part of the island along a rough, rocky dirt track...young children ran to greet us and chased us up the hills while old folks watched us pass and had a good laugh at us climbing hills.
  • Agua de Ojo- eye of the water- aqua marine pools in the forest that are filled with natural spring water and sparkle and shine in the sunlight...the perfect way to soothe our sore bodies after the big bikeride.
  • Hiking Volcan Maderas- 1600meters from sea level right to the top in 3 hours 20minutes...through bean/rice/corn plantations...then into the jungle on a straight up, stick to your gumboots goey muddy trail...led by our fearless guide Felix who chopped down vines and killed snakes with his machette...butterflies (mariposa's en espanol) in the jungle...MONKEYS!...petroglyphs...misty jungle scenes...crater lagoon at the top! 2hours 20 on the way down...we hauled trying to keep up with Felix and he was wearing gumboots.
  • Risky dining experience at a local comedor...that didn't turn out to be the best choice...10 tanked Nica men...moonshine over the counter...filthy cook...rancid Gallo Pinto...all made for a quick exit and a mandatory rum disinfection!
  • Ferry of course...the dude jumps overboard to swim with the rope to shore to tie up the boat...classic central america!

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